white grape · near-extinct
Malvasia
Colares, Sintra, Portugal
Say it
mal·vuh·zee·uhdehkoh·lah·resh
Final '-es' is hushed to '-esh' in Portuguese; the unstressed 'a' in Malvasia becomes a schwa for English speakers.
On the palate
lemongreen appleorange blossomchamomilesalinitywet stone
How you spot it blind: Searing Atlantic salinity anchoring white-floral aromatics; ungrafted vines in coastal sand
The story
First written down · early 19th century, Colares, Portugal
Colares DOC was formally demarcated in 1908; DNA analysis c. 2020 confirmed this white variety is a cross of Hebén (GIBI/Mourisco Branco) × Amaral, genetically distinct from all other Malvasias.
Family tree: GIBI × AMARAL
Where it lives
Colares DOC, Portugal
Shows up as
still whiteorangeColares DOC