DuMOL

Andy Smith has worked diligently and quietly for thirty years in the Russian River Valley and Sonoma Coast to rehabilitate old and establish new vineyards that respect the natural place they inhabit, and to move toward fresher, more balanced wines than the RRV norm. Smith and winemaker Jenna Davis farm organically and pick at night, so fruit arrives cool and firm. Wester Reach blends fruit from Flax, El Diablo, Winners Circle, Cornerstone and Charles Heintz vineyards, then spends 11 months in 27% new French oak and 4 more in tank, a choice that preserves lift, with a firm line in glass. This approach of using multiple sources for fruit is far more than an economic calculation. Jenna painstakingly tests various combinations before finalizing the cuvée - a true bottoms-up approach that's designed to provide an integrated view of what great Russian River Chardonnay can be.

Ripe peach leads, with lime, hazelnut, and a savory, briny green olive tone. White flowers, ginger, plus a touch of anise seed rise from the nose. Broad yet taut with balanced acidity, it runs long on citrus oil and oyster shell, delivering good balance and ending in a long finish.